As with many other handweavers, I
have worked my way through a progression of pieces from scarves to rag rugs
to placemats to couch throws; always returning to the scarf and an
occasional shawl as the definitive canvas for my work.
The scarf is just a simple piece of cloth;
decoration, ornamentation, minimalism, bringing to the forefront the weaver's elements
of design and color. I strive for a "subtle elegance", seldom loud, with
an overall homogeny that frequently appears monochromatic from a distance
yet with a subtle complexity upon closer inspection.
I have a passion for the finest
natural fibers. My scarves are frequently more of a tactile experience than
a visual one. Usually a mix of hand-dyed silk and Mongolian cashmere, they
are superior in both lustre and hand. When available, rare fibers such as
Saxon merino, yak, camel, and qiviut (muskox) occasionally make their way
into my pieces.
I take no short cuts in my work,
every piece is individually hand threaded, handwoven, and hand
hemstitched. For silk warps, I leave a loose fringe for a full look. For
woolen warps, I finish the ends with a hand twist fringe to resist matting
or felting of the ends over time.
Each scarf is classified as either
"fashionwear" or "winterwear":
"Fashionwear" being a
lighter weight piece that can be worn year around. These usually contain
silk and/or cashmere. They are woven at 30 threads/inch or greater and
generally weigh between 3 and 4 ounces.
"Winterwear" is a scarf
that I feel is a bit too heavy, too dense, or too insulating to be
comfortable in warmer climates. These may be woven with thicker yarns at 24
threads/inch or less or may contain fibers such as qiviut (muskox) which is
8 times more insulating than wool.
Shawls are a "winterwear"
weight but may be enjoyed year-round depending on your climate and personal
preferences.
Each scarf takes between 2 1/2 and 3
days to make. With no plans to hire assistants or change my methods, this
limits my production to less than 100 pieces/year. I don't guarantee
my scarves to be one-of-a-kind but, clearly, proud owners of my
scarves will alway remain an elite few.
Fred S. Ullom
